If I had a dollar for every customer who asked 'Does this have retinol?' and then looked disappointed when I said no, I would have a significant budget for more clinical trials. Retinol is the most requested ingredient in men's skincare. It is also one of the most irritating.
The decision to exclude retinol was not easy. It cost us customers who filtered by 'contains retinol.' It required us to explain our reasoning every time. But it was the right decision for the product we wanted to build.
The Conflict
Retinol works. The clinical data is robust. It stimulates collagen production, accelerates cell turnover, and improves skin texture. It also causes redness, peeling, dryness, and photosensitivity for a significant percentage of users — including almost everyone during the first 4-6 weeks of use.
For men who shave daily, these side effects are compounded. Shaving already disrupts the skin barrier. Adding a retinoid to compromised skin is asking for irritation. The combination of retinol + daily shaving produces a predictable cycle of damage and repair that never reaches equilibrium.
The Alternative
Instead of retinol, we formulated with copper peptides, niacinamide, and PHAs — ingredients that stimulate cell turnover and collagen production through different signaling pathways without the inflammatory cascade that retinoids trigger. The results take longer to appear. They also do not require a 6-week adjustment period of peeling and sensitivity.
This was not a compromise. It was a deliberate choice to serve a specific customer: men who want results without a routine that punishes them for having a beard.